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[[File:Laser control switches.jpg|thumb|Laser control switches]]
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* '''Resolution ratio:''' 4000 DPI
* '''Precision tolerance:''' 0.0079 inch.
* '''Control Software:''' [https://lightburnsoftware.com/ Lightburn]** Free trial available, discount for Hacksburg members** Previously used SmartCarve 4.3.21 ([https://drive.google.com/file/d/1oOoq5KYfirdXgVK2t9DpYWoIA-8tbUG7/view?usp=sharing Manual]) ([https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GhyMuBqsgTaTDnHfyIucWfycBqJGQdbi/view?usp=sharing Download]) ([https://drive.google.com/file/d/1s-td1-cxPUv1SguRa3ayP-sREhZdg7Af/view?usp=sharing Drivers])*** According to support, select 5th controller when prompted*** Current version requires key dongle, previous version has demo available ([http://www.yueminglaser.com/YMlaserfiles/YMfiles/Software/install/SmartCarve4/SmartcarveInstall4.3.exe Download])
* '''Accessories:''' Compressed air assist, red dot pointer, refrigerated water chiller, water pump, fume exhaust
* Excessive smoke/debris will damage the lens - Stop work if you notice unusual amounts
* '''The laser beam to the eye can cause permanent retinal damage and even blindness; on the skin it can cause severe burns.'''
=== Material Safety ===
* TO DO: better list, but for now, make sure you have looked up your specific material as being laser cutter compatible.
** [http://discourse.fablabelpaso.org/t/choosing-the-right-type-of-plywood/45 Tips for Plywood]
* '''NEVER''' chlorinated plastics (PVC, CPVC, vinyl, etc.)
* '''NEVER''' chrome tanned leathers
* '''NEVER''' unknown plastics; if you're not sure what it is, it doesn't go in the machine
* '''AVOID''' polycarbonate plastics (Lexan)
* '''AVOID''' high-density polyethelyne (HDPE)
* '''AVOID''' oil-tanned or dyed leathers
* '''AVOID''' unknown plywoods with unknown glues
* '''AVOID''' metals except in extremly thin films, make sure all layers are laser cutter safe
* Suggested for cutting and engraving:
** Acrylic plastic (cell-cast is better than extruded, but either will work)
** PMMA, also known as acrylic or acrylic glass as well as by the trade names Crylux, Plexiglas, Acrylite, Lucite, and Perspex
** Solid woods
** Paper, cardstock, cardboard, etc.
** Foam-core
* Suggested for engraving or frosting only:
** Glass (ordinary cheap (soda-lime, untempered) glass is best)
** Stone (flat, polished; granite or limestone supposedly are good choices)
==Cutting Parameters==
[[File:Laser component location.jpg|thumb|Overview of component locations]]
# Check your materials before approaching cutter
#* TO DO: better list, but for now, make sure you have looked up your specific material as being laser cutter compatible.#** [http://discourse.fablabelpaso.org/t/choosing-the-right-type-of-plywood/45 Tips for Plywood]#* '''NEVER''' chlorinated plastics (PVC, CPVC, vinyl, etc.)#* '''NEVER''' chrome tanned leathers#* '''NEVER''' unknown plastics; if you're not sure what it is, it doesn't go in the machine#* '''AVOID''' polycarbonate plastics (Lexan)#* '''AVOID''' high-density polyethelyne (HDPE)#* '''AVOID''' oil-tanned or dyed leathers#* '''AVOID''' unknown plywoods with unknown glues#* '''AVOID''' metals except in extremly thin films, make sure all layers are laser cutter safe#* Suggested for cutting and engraving: #** Acrylic plastic (cell-cast is better than extruded, but either will work)#** PMMA, also known as acrylic or acrylic glass as well as by the trade names Crylux, Plexiglas, Acrylite, Lucite, and Perspex#** Solid woods#** Paper, cardstock, cardboard, etc.#** Foam-core#* Suggested for engraving or frosting only: #** Glass (ordinary cheap (soda-lime, untempered) glass is best)#** Stone (flat, polished; granite or limestone supposedly are good choices)See Materials Safety section above
# Check cutter and accessories for obvious damage or malfunction - if something looks damaged stop and contact [mailto:board@hacksburg.org board@hacksburg.org]
# PC monitor on if not already (push button under bottom edge to right of center)
# Rotate laser potentiometer to 0 (fully CCW)
[[File:Laser control potentiometer.jpg|thumb|Location of potentiometer]]
# <li value="10"> CamFive voltage regulator on (flip up red switch on regulator, left corner of room)</li>
# Check that white output power bar is on
#* Push in blue button if red light is not lit
[[File:Laser power strip button.jpg|thumb|Power Strip]]
# <li value="12"> Laser main power on (flip up blue power switch on right side of main laser unit)</li>
# Turn on water chiller (bottom red rocker switch right side of laser cutter)
#* Press power button to lower right of screen on chiller to put into Run mode
#* Check that Set Point is 21º C and Temp Diff is 0.5º C
#* If Water Temp is greater than about 24º C, wait until chiller has brought it down some
[[File:Laser control switches.jpg|thumb|Laser control switches]]# <li value="14"> Insert laser key and turn 1/4 turn CW
# Wait for laser internal system to boot
#* White internal work area light and red dot pointer should be on
#* Place block on material, slide to near laser output nozzle
#* While supporting the lower head with one hand, loosen the brass vertical adjust knob (turn CCW to loosen)
#** Note: This is the horizontal knurled brass knob that sticks out straight to the right, with a green rubber cover
#** TO DO: Find a way to better distinguish this knob from others that should not be touched
#* Slide calibration block under nozzle (while on top of your media)
#* Gently lower the nozzle until it is nearly but not quite touching the calibration block
#* You should hear the sound of the compressed air hissing louder, but not low enough that it stops
#* Tighten the brass vertical adjust knob (turn CW to tighten, finger tight only.Do not put much force into it.)
#* Note: the proper distance is 5 mm to 6 mm from the bottom of the nozzle to the closest part of the media for most purposes
#* For certain sorts of area-fill engraving or frosting, it may be desirable to raise the laser somewhat above the focus area to increase the spot size. Research into this is a work in progress.
#* In the software, check that positioning mode is set to Mechanical Origin (unless you are deliberately using Current Point mode)
#* In the software, press Start button under Process
#* Watch the laser head go through your job.Note that the red laser pointer is only an approximation of where the invisble invisible IR cutting laser will go.
# Open ventilation window fully
#* Unlatch two handles (rotate 1/4 turn CW each) and push out
# Exhaust fan on if not already (upper red rocker switch on foot pedal at bottom right right side of main laser unit)# * Check that no precipitation (rain, snow) is blowing in.If the wind is strong from the wrong direction it may not be suitable to operate the laser.There is currently a wooden panel that can be propped over the opening if it's not too windy.
# When ready, push white circular Laser Power On/Off button in (lights up white)
# Adjust laser power potentiometer (knob labeled "Laser 1") to desired power
#* Current recommendation is to program your settings with the pot potentiometer at 50100%, so that you can adjust it up or down with the pot as needed.#* For cutting some materials, this may not be efficient as you will want use laser full powerand most reliable repeatability.#* TO DO: Quantify relationship Relationship between the power settings in various places (Lightburn and the dial seems largely multiplicative). e.g. 50% in software and 50% on potentiometer approximately equals 25% power#* A minimum of approximately 20% power is required for the laser to turn on
# Before clicking start, double check that chiller, air-pump, and exhaust blower are running, window is open, and laser lid is closed
# In the laser software, press Start button (under Process "Laser" tab in SmartCarveLightburn, bottom right)
# Watch your job progress through the tinted front or top window of the laser cutter. If there are problems, use the Suspend or Stop buttons in the laser cutter software as a first choice, the Start/Pause button on the laser control panel as a second choice. If the Emergency Stop button is used, you should reboot the unit after correcting the problem.
#* In case of minor flare-ups, once the laser is stopped use the green spray bottle of water.Try not to get water onto any of the optical or mechanical components, and make sure everything is fully dry before continuing.
==Shutdown Procedure==
# Once final cut has completed and laser has stopped, press the white circular Laser Power On/Off button to deactivate the beam (switch back light should turn off)
# If your job produced some smoke or fumes, wait a minute for them to clear.
#* It may be helepful helpful to lift the lid just slightly to suck in room air from the front over your media.
# Lift cover and unload your media; remove any debris remaining from cutting; close cover
# If you will be using it again soon, you can temporarily turn the exhaust fan (Blower) switch off (upper red switch on foot pedal at bottom right of main laser unit) to reduce background noise while you edit (and allow you to close the window if the weather is bad).Remember to re-open the window and turn the exhaust fan (Blower) back on before starting again!
# When done for the day:
# Remove and return guides, alignment blocks, jigs, etc. to the blue Laser Guides bin or other proper storage location
# Rotate laser potentiometer to 0 (fully CCW)
# Turn off air pump (middle red rocker switch right side of laser cutter)
# Turn off exhaust blower (wall switch by doorfoot pedal at bottom right of main laser unit)
# Put the water chiller in standby mode (press the power button on the front panel, screen should read "Standby")
#* '''The chiller must be put in standby before powering off or permanent damage may occur'''
