Hacksburg Wiki - User contributions [en]

Tools/3D Printing

2020-03-22T18:10:23Z

Chend: how to import ini file

== Current Printers ==
* [[tools/3D_Printing/Creality CR-10 S4|Creality CR-10 S4]]
** '''Build Area:''' 400x400x400 mm (Roughly 15.75x15.75x15.75 inches)
** Has a heated bed (heats slowly, max 75 C, can be raised by insulated bed or building enclosure)
** Can work PLA
** '''Workflow:''' [[tools/3D_Printing/OctoPrint|OctoPrint]]
** '''Settings:'''
*** Cura: https://gist.github.com/MaxBareiss/dffded4b12485aaded61313ad5667154
*** [https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer/releases Prusaslicer] (Slic3r): https://gist.github.com/MaxBareiss/9f97218f1111aa1ae0247e9d0fbc3083
**** To upload files go to: File > Import > Import Config Bundle

* [[tools:3D_Printing/Printrbot Simple|Printrbot Simple Makers Kit]]
** '''Build Area:''' Roughly 4x4x4 inches
** Can work PLA and ABS (has heated bed)
** '''Workflow:''' Connected to computer with Cura 2.4 series slicer.
** Portable; can run on battery power
*** Requires at least 12V @ 4A for running without heated bed
*** Running the heated bed on battery power has '''not''' been tested and is not allowed at present.
** '''Currently non-functional''' -- Power supply is dangerously unshielded.
* Solidoodle 3
** '''Build Area:''' Roughly 8x8x8 inches
** Has a heated bed
** Fully enclosed with acrylic sheeting
** '''Currently non-functional''' -- Has issues with Y-axis traversal, thermistor issues
* Mbot Cube (revision 1)
** '''Build Area:''' Roughly 8x8x8 inches
** No heated bed (though one can be added)
** Dual extruders (though they need alignment)
** Workflow
*** Uses Proprietary MPrint software to communicate with printer via USB
*** Can also print from an .x3g file read from the on-board SD card reader (2 GB maximum capacity); .x3g files can be made in ReplicatorG with appropriate configuration.
** '''Currently non-functional''' -- Bed alignment system is damaged; new print bed needed

* Anycubic Photon

== Current Filament Available ==
* PLA filament (transparent blue) -- ~1kg spool
* ABS filament (green) -- ~1kg spool

== Usage and Workflow ==
The 3D printer is controlled via the desktop computer set up next to it. The basic workflow is this:

# Take a 3D model and convert it to an STL file.
# The STL file then must be converted to GCode.
# The GCode is sent to the printer for printing.

=== 3D Modeling/STL creation ===

We have three CAD programs installed for creating 3D models. Two rely on the principle of [[wp>Constructive solid geometry|Constructive Solid Geometry]] (CSG).

* [http://openscad.org/ OpenSCAD] is the more mature of the two programs. It uses a scripting language to define a model using CSG.
* [http://www.mattkeeter.com/projects/antimony/3/ Antimony] is a new program, released in Spring 2015 as a visual approach to CSG. While it is easier to use, its STL export is considerably cruder (it uses a naive algorithm for creating models).
* [http://solvespace.com/ SolveSpace] is a constraint-based, parametric CAD program. It has the advantage of having a more traditional CAD interface, but there is a bit of a learning curve; going through the tutorials on the program's website is highly recommended.

Alternatively, you can download an STL file from an online 3D printing repository like [[https://www.youmagine.com/|YouMagine]] or [https://www.thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse].

=== GCode Production ===
We recommend the use of PrusaSlicer (Slic3r) for the Creality CR-10. A settings file optimized for this printer is [https://gist.github.com/MaxBareiss/9f97218f1111aa1ae0247e9d0fbc3083 here]. The most important setting for this printer is to set the maximum acceleration limit to 500 mm/s².

=== Visual Troubleshooting Guides ===

* http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide
* http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide
* https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

== Webcam Access ==
There are three options to access the webcam to view 3D prints in progress.
* Static View: [http://216.252.200.71:65413/cgi-bin/CGIStream.fcgi?cmd=snapPicture2&usr=Snap&pwd=123snap! Click Here] (This does not work on Hacksburg WiFi, refresh the page for an updated image.
* Basic Stream:
*# Open VLC and navigate to Tools>Preferences.
*# In the bottom left corner of the Preferences window under "Show Settings" click the "All" option.
*# In the search box, type "Image Demuxer" and select the "Image" option.
*# Change the "Duration in Seconds" option to 1.00 seconds and click save.
*# Turn on looping.
*# Select Media>"Open a Network Stream" and type <nowiki>http://216.252.200.71:65413//cgi-bin/CGIStream.fcgi?cmd=snapPicture2&usr=Snap&pwd=123snap!</nowiki> into the Network URL box.
*# Click Play and the video should begin playing at ~1 FPS
*# '''Note:''' This method is a workaround if you do not wish to install the IPCWebComponents.exe required for full camera control. That method provides better video quality and the option to pan/tilt/zoom.
* Full Control: [http://216.252.200.71:65413 Click Here] Visit from Internet Explorer initially to download and install IPCWebComponents.exe. The interface can then be accessed from other browsers (does not appear to work in Firefox).
** User: Operator
** Password: 123snap!

== Planned Printers ==
* Prusa i3 derivative
** Planning discussions started in early January 2015, but stalled.
** '''Current components:''' RAMPS board, Arduino, heated bed, thermistor, user interface board, one pulley with CL2 toothed belt
** '''Missing components:''' Just about everything else

Tools/3D Printing

2020-03-22T18:04:28Z

Chend: add link to prusaslicer download page on gh

== Current Printers ==
* [[tools/3D_Printing/Creality CR-10 S4|Creality CR-10 S4]]
** '''Build Area:''' 400x400x400 mm (Roughly 15.75x15.75x15.75 inches)
** Has a heated bed (heats slowly, max 75 C, can be raised by insulated bed or building enclosure)
** Can work PLA
** '''Workflow:''' [[tools/3D_Printing/OctoPrint|OctoPrint]]
** '''Settings:'''
*** Cura: https://gist.github.com/MaxBareiss/dffded4b12485aaded61313ad5667154
*** [https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer/releases Prusaslicer] (Slic3r): https://gist.github.com/MaxBareiss/9f97218f1111aa1ae0247e9d0fbc3083

* [[tools:3D_Printing/Printrbot Simple|Printrbot Simple Makers Kit]]
** '''Build Area:''' Roughly 4x4x4 inches
** Can work PLA and ABS (has heated bed)
** '''Workflow:''' Connected to computer with Cura 2.4 series slicer.
** Portable; can run on battery power
*** Requires at least 12V @ 4A for running without heated bed
*** Running the heated bed on battery power has '''not''' been tested and is not allowed at present.
** '''Currently non-functional''' -- Power supply is dangerously unshielded.
* Solidoodle 3
** '''Build Area:''' Roughly 8x8x8 inches
** Has a heated bed
** Fully enclosed with acrylic sheeting
** '''Currently non-functional''' -- Has issues with Y-axis traversal, thermistor issues
* Mbot Cube (revision 1)
** '''Build Area:''' Roughly 8x8x8 inches
** No heated bed (though one can be added)
** Dual extruders (though they need alignment)
** Workflow
*** Uses Proprietary MPrint software to communicate with printer via USB
*** Can also print from an .x3g file read from the on-board SD card reader (2 GB maximum capacity); .x3g files can be made in ReplicatorG with appropriate configuration.
** '''Currently non-functional''' -- Bed alignment system is damaged; new print bed needed

* Anycubic Photon

== Current Filament Available ==
* PLA filament (transparent blue) -- ~1kg spool
* ABS filament (green) -- ~1kg spool

== Usage and Workflow ==
The 3D printer is controlled via the desktop computer set up next to it. The basic workflow is this:

# Take a 3D model and convert it to an STL file.
# The STL file then must be converted to GCode.
# The GCode is sent to the printer for printing.

=== 3D Modeling/STL creation ===

We have three CAD programs installed for creating 3D models. Two rely on the principle of [[wp>Constructive solid geometry|Constructive Solid Geometry]] (CSG).

* [http://openscad.org/ OpenSCAD] is the more mature of the two programs. It uses a scripting language to define a model using CSG.
* [http://www.mattkeeter.com/projects/antimony/3/ Antimony] is a new program, released in Spring 2015 as a visual approach to CSG. While it is easier to use, its STL export is considerably cruder (it uses a naive algorithm for creating models).
* [http://solvespace.com/ SolveSpace] is a constraint-based, parametric CAD program. It has the advantage of having a more traditional CAD interface, but there is a bit of a learning curve; going through the tutorials on the program's website is highly recommended.

Alternatively, you can download an STL file from an online 3D printing repository like [[https://www.youmagine.com/|YouMagine]] or [https://www.thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse].

=== GCode Production ===
We recommend the use of PrusaSlicer (Slic3r) for the Creality CR-10. A settings file optimized for this printer is [https://gist.github.com/MaxBareiss/9f97218f1111aa1ae0247e9d0fbc3083 here]. The most important setting for this printer is to set the maximum acceleration limit to 500 mm/s².

=== Visual Troubleshooting Guides ===

* http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide
* http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide
* https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

== Webcam Access ==
There are three options to access the webcam to view 3D prints in progress.
* Static View: [http://216.252.200.71:65413/cgi-bin/CGIStream.fcgi?cmd=snapPicture2&usr=Snap&pwd=123snap! Click Here] (This does not work on Hacksburg WiFi, refresh the page for an updated image.
* Basic Stream:
*# Open VLC and navigate to Tools>Preferences.
*# In the bottom left corner of the Preferences window under "Show Settings" click the "All" option.
*# In the search box, type "Image Demuxer" and select the "Image" option.
*# Change the "Duration in Seconds" option to 1.00 seconds and click save.
*# Turn on looping.
*# Select Media>"Open a Network Stream" and type <nowiki>http://216.252.200.71:65413//cgi-bin/CGIStream.fcgi?cmd=snapPicture2&usr=Snap&pwd=123snap!</nowiki> into the Network URL box.
*# Click Play and the video should begin playing at ~1 FPS
*# '''Note:''' This method is a workaround if you do not wish to install the IPCWebComponents.exe required for full camera control. That method provides better video quality and the option to pan/tilt/zoom.
* Full Control: [http://216.252.200.71:65413 Click Here] Visit from Internet Explorer initially to download and install IPCWebComponents.exe. The interface can then be accessed from other browsers (does not appear to work in Firefox).
** User: Operator
** Password: 123snap!

== Planned Printers ==
* Prusa i3 derivative
** Planning discussions started in early January 2015, but stalled.
** '''Current components:''' RAMPS board, Arduino, heated bed, thermistor, user interface board, one pulley with CL2 toothed belt
** '''Missing components:''' Just about everything else

Tools/3D Printing

2020-03-22T17:53:34Z

Chend: add printer Anycubic Photon

== Current Printers ==
* [[tools/3D_Printing/Creality CR-10 S4|Creality CR-10 S4]]
** '''Build Area:''' 400x400x400 mm (Roughly 15.75x15.75x15.75 inches)
** Has a heated bed (heats slowly, max 75 C, can be raised by insulated bed or building enclosure)
** Can work PLA
** '''Workflow:''' [[tools/3D_Printing/OctoPrint|OctoPrint]]
** '''Settings:'''
*** Cura: https://gist.github.com/MaxBareiss/dffded4b12485aaded61313ad5667154
*** Prusaslicer (Slic3r): https://gist.github.com/MaxBareiss/9f97218f1111aa1ae0247e9d0fbc3083

* [[tools:3D_Printing/Printrbot Simple|Printrbot Simple Makers Kit]]
** '''Build Area:''' Roughly 4x4x4 inches
** Can work PLA and ABS (has heated bed)
** '''Workflow:''' Connected to computer with Cura 2.4 series slicer.
** Portable; can run on battery power
*** Requires at least 12V @ 4A for running without heated bed
*** Running the heated bed on battery power has '''not''' been tested and is not allowed at present.
** '''Currently non-functional''' -- Power supply is dangerously unshielded.
* Solidoodle 3
** '''Build Area:''' Roughly 8x8x8 inches
** Has a heated bed
** Fully enclosed with acrylic sheeting
** '''Currently non-functional''' -- Has issues with Y-axis traversal, thermistor issues
* Mbot Cube (revision 1)
** '''Build Area:''' Roughly 8x8x8 inches
** No heated bed (though one can be added)
** Dual extruders (though they need alignment)
** Workflow
*** Uses Proprietary MPrint software to communicate with printer via USB
*** Can also print from an .x3g file read from the on-board SD card reader (2 GB maximum capacity); .x3g files can be made in ReplicatorG with appropriate configuration.
** '''Currently non-functional''' -- Bed alignment system is damaged; new print bed needed

* Anycubic Photon

== Current Filament Available ==
* PLA filament (transparent blue) -- ~1kg spool
* ABS filament (green) -- ~1kg spool

== Usage and Workflow ==
The 3D printer is controlled via the desktop computer set up next to it. The basic workflow is this:

# Take a 3D model and convert it to an STL file.
# The STL file then must be converted to GCode.
# The GCode is sent to the printer for printing.

=== 3D Modeling/STL creation ===

We have three CAD programs installed for creating 3D models. Two rely on the principle of [[wp>Constructive solid geometry|Constructive Solid Geometry]] (CSG).

* [http://openscad.org/ OpenSCAD] is the more mature of the two programs. It uses a scripting language to define a model using CSG.
* [http://www.mattkeeter.com/projects/antimony/3/ Antimony] is a new program, released in Spring 2015 as a visual approach to CSG. While it is easier to use, its STL export is considerably cruder (it uses a naive algorithm for creating models).
* [http://solvespace.com/ SolveSpace] is a constraint-based, parametric CAD program. It has the advantage of having a more traditional CAD interface, but there is a bit of a learning curve; going through the tutorials on the program's website is highly recommended.

Alternatively, you can download an STL file from an online 3D printing repository like [[https://www.youmagine.com/|YouMagine]] or [https://www.thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse].

=== GCode Production ===
We recommend the use of PrusaSlicer (Slic3r) for the Creality CR-10. A settings file optimized for this printer is [https://gist.github.com/MaxBareiss/9f97218f1111aa1ae0247e9d0fbc3083 here]. The most important setting for this printer is to set the maximum acceleration limit to 500 mm/s².

=== Visual Troubleshooting Guides ===

* http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide
* http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide
* https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

== Webcam Access ==
There are three options to access the webcam to view 3D prints in progress.
* Static View: [http://216.252.200.71:65413/cgi-bin/CGIStream.fcgi?cmd=snapPicture2&usr=Snap&pwd=123snap! Click Here] (This does not work on Hacksburg WiFi, refresh the page for an updated image.
* Basic Stream:
*# Open VLC and navigate to Tools>Preferences.
*# In the bottom left corner of the Preferences window under "Show Settings" click the "All" option.
*# In the search box, type "Image Demuxer" and select the "Image" option.
*# Change the "Duration in Seconds" option to 1.00 seconds and click save.
*# Turn on looping.
*# Select Media>"Open a Network Stream" and type <nowiki>http://216.252.200.71:65413//cgi-bin/CGIStream.fcgi?cmd=snapPicture2&usr=Snap&pwd=123snap!</nowiki> into the Network URL box.
*# Click Play and the video should begin playing at ~1 FPS
*# '''Note:''' This method is a workaround if you do not wish to install the IPCWebComponents.exe required for full camera control. That method provides better video quality and the option to pan/tilt/zoom.
* Full Control: [http://216.252.200.71:65413 Click Here] Visit from Internet Explorer initially to download and install IPCWebComponents.exe. The interface can then be accessed from other browsers (does not appear to work in Firefox).
** User: Operator
** Password: 123snap!

== Planned Printers ==
* Prusa i3 derivative
** Planning discussions started in early January 2015, but stalled.
** '''Current components:''' RAMPS board, Arduino, heated bed, thermistor, user interface board, one pulley with CL2 toothed belt
** '''Missing components:''' Just about everything else

Rooms & Tools/Wood Shop

2020-03-08T23:37:10Z

Chend: add John's woodworking 101 directions with some more notes

=== Machine Tools ===

<gallery>
Woodlathe.jpg|Central Machinery 1/2 HP 10x18 Wood Lathe
Tablesaw.jpg|Skilsaw 10" Tablesaw
Scrollsaw.jpg|Central Machinery 16" Variable Speed Scroll Saw
Ryobibandsaw.jpg|Ryobi BS901 1/3 HP 9" Bandsaw
Routertable2.jpg|Craftsman Router Table with Removable 2 HP Router
Mpcnc.jpg|[[Tools/Mostly Printed CNC]]
Jointer.jpg|Craftsman 6" Jointer Planer
Drumsander.jpg|Wen 1/2 HP Oscillating Drum Sander
Beltsander.jpg|Central Machinery 4x36" Belt and 6" Disc Sander
Planer.jpg|Makitia 12x6" Planer
Comingsoon.png|10" Sliding Miter Saw
Comingsoon.png|70 Gallon 2HP Dust Collector
</gallery>

=== Hand Tools ===
* Hand Saw
* 6 inch Coping Saw
* Claw Hammers
* Carpenter square
* Quick square
* 60" Ruler
* Palm sander
* Dewalt Sawhorse (x2)
* Dremel 200
* Hand Drills (x3)
* Forstner Drill Bit Set (1/4 in. - 2-1/8 in.)
* 115 piece Drill Set
* Bar Clamps (various)

=== Safety ===

The [https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCIQGOb_7vqGrylX8o5VnOEw WoodWorkers Guild of America] has an excellent series of videos covering may tips and safety rules for various woodworking equipment. If you are ever uncomfortable with a tool or do not feel safe '''STOP''' immediately and ask for help. Rushing through a project is not worth it!

==== Table Saw ====
<youtube width="400" height="220">0WhnZS1p5Qg</youtube>
<youtube width="400" height="220">Y9V4FyCX97Y</youtube>
<youtube width="400" height="220">u7sRrC2Jpp4</youtube>

==== Miter Saw ====
<youtube width="400" height="220">FVpmjX1DjmI</youtube>

==== Band Saw ====
<youtube width="400" height="220">paXdjslgPgU</youtube>

==== Jointer ====
<youtube width="400" height="220">3d1qBxcnI0E</youtube>

==== Router ====
<youtube width="400" height="220">8Vl8Jbw3cSk</youtube>

http://www.wwgoa.com/article/12-tips-for-using-a-router-safely/

http://www.finewoodworking.com/workshop/article/12-tips-for-router-table-safety.aspx

==== Planer ====
<youtube width="400" height="220">P6gEBjzI0X8</youtube>

= Woodshop 101: box with lid and side handles =

== Supplies ==

# 8’ long 1x12" wood board, one per box (note actual lumber size differs from what is labeled)
# 1/4" diameter wooden dowel pins
# Sandpaper (medium and fine)

== Tools ==

# Sliding miter saw
# Drill/driver
# Jigsaw with a wood blade
# 1-2 band clamps
# Tape measure
# Wood glue
# 1.5" Forstner bit
# Speed square
# Oscillating Spindle Sander (optional)

== Instructions ==

# Using the miter saw, cut the board into six pieces using the following dimensions. Be sure to support the long end of the board and clamp the workpiece while cutting.
#* 2 front: 17 5/8" x 12"
#* 2 sides: 12" square
#* 2 top/bottom: 16" by 12"
# On each side panel, draw a horizontal line 2" from the top '''against the grain'''. Now find the center of the side, and mark. This will be the center of your box handle. Measure out 1"5 to each side from this spot and make a mark. These crosshairs are the starting point (center) of your Forstner bit.
#* The holes should be inline/parallel with the grain so the board does not potentially split along the grain during a heavy load
#* '''Tip''': Initial all panels so they don’t get mixed up
# On the top panel, draw a horizontal line 3" from both of the short sides. Now find the center of the side, and mark. This will be the center of your box handle. Measure out 1.5" to each side from this spot and make a mark. These crosshairs are the starting point (center) of your Forstner bit
# Using the drill press, drill all the way through each of the crosshairs (8 total holes) Use some scrap wood underneath your workpiece to prevent tear out and solidly clamp the workpiece before drilling.
# Using a straight-edge, trace 2 lines between the holes to outline the handle.
# Use the jigsaw to cut out the handle. Place the blade through one of the holes, and then cut along the traced line. Repeat for all 4 handles
#* Optional: Use the spindle sander to clean out the handle
# Place a thin layer of glue along all the joined edges of the box
## All 4 sides of the bottom piece
## Both sides of the side piece (with handles)
## '''None''' on the front piece
## '''None''' on the top piece
# Now it’s time to put everything together. Use the band clamp to assemble the box, making sure your edges are flush. Insert the top and bottom pieces to keep everything square.
# Using a 1/4" drill bit, drill through the front pieces into the side and bottom pieces. Use a stop collar to drill a hole 1/8" deeper than your dowel pins. Put 2 holes along the side and 3 along the bottom (7x2 = 14 total). Also, drill 2 holes through each side into the bottom.
#* Note: '''Only drill one hole at a time!''' Otherwise, the holes can become misaligned and the dowels will not go all the way in.
# Put a squirt of glue into the hole and insert the dowel pin all the way. Use an extra pin to push it all the way. Repeat for all 18 holes. Wipe off any excess glue with a damp paper towel.

== Optional finishing steps ==

* Fill the dowel holes with wood putty and wait 30 minutes to harden. Use a sanding block to sand the putty down until it’s flush with the surface.
* The edges and handles of the box can be sanded to remove sharp corners.
* A lip or hinge can be added to support the “lid” of the box.
* The box can be finished with paint or stain or left unfinished.

Tools/Laser Cutter

2020-02-15T03:10:54Z

Chend: How to setup a new device in Lightburn for our laser cutter

Hacksburg has a [https://www.camfive.com/usa/index.php/camfive-laser-cutting-and-engraving-machine-cfl-cma2416.html CAMFive CFL-CMA2416] CO2 Laser Cutter.

[https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yVc5e2eVnDQFq5nKluH2-o0YHgK8Mozw/view?usp=sharing Machine Manual]

[https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8YtcJJuU6QSMjNxRVhIZ3JVbDRUUzF5ZUU2bWxQZlpIbWt3/view?usp=sharing Installation Manual]

==Specifications==
* '''Bed size:''' 24 in x 16 in honeycomb worktable, rear pass-through, material up to 3/4" thick
** Actual working area is 600 mm x 400 mm
* '''Laser Power:''' 80 Watts (80W Pro tube)
* '''Engraving speed:''' 0-40 inch/s (0-1016 mm/s)
** (May be limited to 400 mm/s with current setup)
* '''Max cutting speed:''' 0-23 inch/s (0-584 mm/s)
** (May be limited to 400 mm/s with current setup)
* '''Resolution ratio:''' 4000 DPI
* '''Precision tolerance:''' 0.0079 inch.
* '''Control Software:''' SmartCarve 4.3.21 ([https://drive.google.com/file/d/1oOoq5KYfirdXgVK2t9DpYWoIA-8tbUG7/view?usp=sharing Manual]) ([https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GhyMuBqsgTaTDnHfyIucWfycBqJGQdbi/view?usp=sharing Download]) ([https://drive.google.com/file/d/1s-td1-cxPUv1SguRa3ayP-sREhZdg7Af/view?usp=sharing Drivers])
** According to support, select 5th controller when prompted
** Current version requires key dongle, previous version has demo available ([http://www.yueminglaser.com/YMlaserfiles/YMfiles/Software/install/SmartCarve4/SmartcarveInstall4.3.exe Download])
* '''Accessories:''' Compressed air assist, red dot pointer, refrigerated water chiller, water pump, fume exhaust

==Safety Info==

{| class="wikitable"
! Potential Hazards: Burns, Eye Damage, Fire, Toxic fumes
|}

* Only cut known,acceptable materials (untreated/unstained)
* Certain materials give off extremely toxic fumes - For example, PVC, Vinyl, Chrome-tanned leather, and several other materials give off chlorine gas which can cause severe long-term health effects.
* Always turn off laser before opening lid
* Wear safety glasses if viewing laser through gaps in side of lid
* Pause/Stop cut immediately if you see flames; if flame doesn't go out, use the spray bottle and then fire extinguisher
* STOP ALL WORK IMMEDIATELY and ask for assistance if you SMELL, HEAR, or SEE anything unusual
* Ensure all people and objects are out of the way of the laser head’s homing motion when you power on the machine
* Check that all accessories turn on when you power on the machine
* Excessive smoke/debris will damage the lens - Stop work if you notice unusual amounts
* '''The laser beam to the eye can cause permanent retinal damage and even blindness; on the skin it can cause severe burns.'''

==Cutting Parameters==
A running list of cutting parameters is maintained in the [[Tool/Laser_Cutter/Cutting Parameters|Cutting Parameters]] article.

A Lightburn materials file for the 80W laser can be downloaded here: [[Media:HacksburgMaterials.clb]]. The most up to date version will be on the laser cutter PC.

==Lightburn Device Setup==

Laser cutter device settings in Lightburn.
You will see a device setup wizard on Lightburn's first launch.
You can also edit and add new devices on the bottom right by pressing the "Devices" button

* Laser/Controler: Ruida
* Connection interface: Serial/USB
* Name: Hacksburg (or whatever you wish)
* Working area dimentions: 600mm x 400mm
* Origin: Rear Right

==Startup and Operation Procedure==
# Check your materials before approaching cutter
#* TO DO: better list, but for now, make sure you have looked up your specific material as being laser cutter compatible.
#** [http://discourse.fablabelpaso.org/t/choosing-the-right-type-of-plywood/45 Tips for Plywood]
#* '''NEVER''' chlorinated plastics (PVC, CPVC, vinyl, etc.)
#* '''NEVER''' chrome tanned leathers
#* '''NEVER''' unknown plastics; if you're not sure what it is, it doesn't go in the machine
#* '''AVOID''' polycarbonate plastics (Lexan)
#* '''AVOID''' high-density polyethelyne (HDPE)
#* '''AVOID''' oil-tanned or dyed leathers
#* '''AVOID''' unknown plywoods with unknown glues
#* '''AVOID''' metals except in extremly thin films, make sure all layers are laser cutter safe
#* Suggested for cutting and engraving:
#** Acrylic plastic (cell-cast is better than extruded, but either will work)
#** PMMA, also known as acrylic or acrylic glass as well as by the trade names Crylux, Plexiglas, Acrylite, Lucite, and Perspex
#** Solid woods
#** Paper, cardstock, cardboard, etc.
#** Foam-core
#* Suggested for engraving or frosting only:
#** Glass (ordinary cheap (soda-lime, untempered) glass is best)
#** Stone (flat, polished; granite or limestone supposedly are good choices)
# Check cutter and accessories for obvious damage or malfunction - if something looks damaged stop and contact [mailto:board@hacksburg.org board@hacksburg.org]
# PC monitor on if not already (push button under bottom edge to right of center)
# PC on if not already (push button above Dell logo)
# Log into Hacksburg account on PC
# Start LightBurn software on PC
#* You may see a pop-up dialog asking if you want to allow LightBurn from an unknown publisher to modify files. Say Yes. TO DO: Fix permissions so it doesn't do this.(May require installing outside of Program Files?)
# Create or load, import, adjust files etc.
#* See documentation elsewhere (pending) on compatible file formats, layer standards, etc.
#* You will need to manually set the intensity and speed for any layer you use. See [[Tools/Laser_Cutter/Cutting Parameters|Cutting Parameters]] page for more info.
#* The factory-suggested default is that layers 1-10 are for cutting, layers 11-14 are for fill, and layers 15-256 are for engraving.
#** Note that the cutter appears to process layers in numerical order. Thus, if you follow the default suggestions, the cuts will happen before the engraving.This may not be what you want.
#** The problem with the factory suggestions is that it is annoying to set up and proof, and ends up cutting before engraving.For simple files without fill, using 1 (blue) and 2 (green) for engraving, and 3 (red) for cutting, is easy to set up, proof, and use.
#** Depending on the last user, some layers may start turned off.Double click the "No" under the Process column to toggle them back on (and, if needed, the No under Visible).
#** Unless you are sure what you are doing, Positioning Mode in LightBurn should be set to Mechanical Origin, and you should use the "Put Graph to Origin" function in LightBurn to align the upper right of your file with the upper right of the work area (and the 0,0 of the laser cutter)
# Ensure that the water in the chiller fully covers the metal coil. If not, top it up from the jug of '''distilled''' water (usually found under the table)
# Rotate laser potentiometer to 0 (fully CCW)
# CamFive voltage regulator on (flip up red switch on regulator, left corner of room)
# Check that white output power bar is on
#* Push in blue button if red light is not lit
# Laser main power on (flip up blue power switch on right side of main laser unit)
# Turn on water chiller (bottom red rocker switch right side of laser cutter)
#* Press poer button to lower right of screen on chiller to put into Run mode
#* Check that Set Point is 21º C and Temp Diff is 0.5º C
#* If Water Temp is greater than about 24º C, wait until chiller has brought it down some
# Insert laser key and turn 1/4 turn CW
# Wait for laser internal system to boot
#* White internal work area light and red dot pointer should be on
#** Note: The red dot alignment pointer, while technically a laser, is not what actually does the cutting and is harmless.References to "laser" in this document refer to the main 80W IR (invisble) laser, not the red dot.
# Check laser display screen for any error messages or problems
# Lift cover and load your media; secure if needed; close cover
#* The usable (writable) area is 600 mm x 400 mm, or about 24" x 16"
#* The honeycomb part of the bed is about 25 3/8" x 17 1/4"
#* If everything is set correctly, the "Mechanical Origin" 0,0 point is in the upper right of the usable area
#* Approximate offset of 0,0 from the upper right edge of the honeycomb is 22.25 mm from right, 27.75 mm from top
#* Check the blue Laser Guides bin for jigs; use the ones labeled 22.5 mm Right and 28 mm Top as needed
# Turn on Air Pump (middle red switch on right side of main laser unit)
# Adjust laser vertical clearance and focus
#* Find "Laser Vertical Calibration Guide" (thick clear tile that should be in the blue Laser Guides bin, on or near the laser cutter)
#* Place block on material, slide to near laser output nozzle
#* While supporting the lower head with one hand, loosen the brass vertical adjust knob (turn CCW to loosen)
#** Note: This is the horizontal knurled brass knob that sticks out straight to the right
#** TO DO: Find a way to better distinguish this knob from others that should not be touched
#* Slide calibration block under nozzle (while on top of your media)
#* Gently lower the nozzle until it is nearly but not quite touching the calibration block
#* You should hear the sound of the compressed air hissing louder, but not low enough that it stops
#* Tighten the brass vertical adjust knob (turn CW to tighten, finger tight only.Do not put much force into it.)
#* Note: the proper distance is 5 mm to 6 mm from the bottom of the nozzle to the closest part of the media for most purposes
#* For certain sorts of area-fill engraving or frosting, it may be desirable to raise the laser somewhat above the focus area to increase the spot size. Research into this is a work in progress.
#* TO DO: Cut a better primary calibration block and a second one for defocused engraving
# Test job for origin, size, location, interference, etc. without laser power
#* Check that laser cover is fully closed
#* Check that laser power is still Off (white button is up and not illuminated)
#* In the software, check that positioning mode is set to Mechanical Origin (unless you are deliberately using Current Point mode)
#* In the software, press Start button under Process
#* Watch the laser head go through your job.Note that the red laser pointer is only an approximation of where the invisble IR cutting laser will go.
# Open ventilation window fully
#* Unlatch two handles (rotate 1/4 turn CW each) and push out
# Exhaust fan on if not already (upper red rocker switch on right right side of main laser unit)
# Check that no precipitation (rain, snow) is blowing in.If the wind is strong from the wrong direction it may not be suitable to operate the laser.There is currently a wooden panel that can be propped over the opening if it's not too windy.
# When ready, push white circular Laser Power On/Off button in (lights up white)
# Adjust laser power potentiometer (knob labeled "Laser 1") to desired power
#* Current recommendation is to program your settings with the pot at 50%, so that you can adjust it up or down with the pot as needed.
#* For cutting some materials, this may not be efficient as you will want full power
#* TO DO: Quantify relationship between the power settings in various places (seems largely multiplicative)
# Before clicking start, double check that chiller, air-pump, and exhaust blower are running, window is open, and laser lid is closed
# In the laser software, press Start button (under Process in SmartCarve)
# Watch your job progress through the tinted front or top window of the laser cutter. If there are problems, use the Suspend or Stop buttons in the laser cutter software as a first choice, the Start/Pause button on the laser control panel as a second choice. If the Emergency Stop button is used, you should reboot the unit after correcting the problem.
#* In case of minor flare-ups, once the laser is stopped use the green spray bottle of water.Try not to get water onto any of the optical or mechanical components, and make sure everything is fully dry before continuing.

==Shutdown Procedure==
# Once final cut has completed and laser has stopped, press the white circular Laser Power On/Off button to deactivate the beam (switch back light should turn off)
# If your job produced some smoke or fumes, wait a minute for them to clear.
#* It may be helepful to lift the lid just slightly to suck in room air from the front over your media.
# Lift cover and unload your media; remove any debris remaining from cutting; close cover
# If you will be using it again soon, you can temporarily turn the exhaust fan (Blower) switch off (upper red switch on right of main laser unit) to reduce background noise while you edit (and allow you to close the window if the weather is bad).Remember to re-open the window and turn the exhaust fan (Blower) back on before starting again!
# When done for the day:
# Remove and return guides, alignment blocks, jigs, etc. to the blue Laser Guides bin or other proper storage location
# Rotate laser potentiometer to 0 (fully CCW)
# Turn off air pump (middle red rocker switch right side of laser cutter)
# Turn off exhaust blower (wall switch by door)
# Put the water chiller in standby mode (press the power button on the front panel, screen should read "Standby")
#* '''The chiller must be put in standby before powering off or permanent damage may occur'''
# Turn off water chiller (bottom red rocker switch right side of laser cutter)
# Turn off laser unit by rotating key 1/4 turn CCW); remove laser key and return to storage location
# Laser main power off (flip down blue power switch on right side of unit)
# CamFive voltage regulator off (flip down red switch on front of voltage regulator)
# '''Close ventilation window'''
# Make sure any files are cleaned off the PC, or put in your userfiles folder under Hacksburg's "My Documents"
#* e.g. C:\Users\Hacksburg\My Documents\userfiles\//yourname//

==Instructional Videos==
* [http://youtu.be/7QBnZnEK2Zg Laser machine installation video 1]
* [http://youtu.be/SvZAQhfgZ_E Laser machine installation video 2]
* [http://youtu.be/FLJRLFTFwqk Laser machine installation video 3]
* [http://youtu.be/oC3bDWmJgKs Laser machine installation video 4]
* [http://youtu.be/cIEkolJiUD8 Software installation]
* [http://youtu.be/ZRk4PsvMfiw Machine Maintenance]